Friday, March 6, 2009

Projects Galore

So looks like I’m averaging about an entry every 2 months. They said that people staying on an outer island would probably only have access to internet once every couple months...you would think, therefore, that I was living on an outer island. But I’m not...just very busy – which is a good thing. I thought, therefore, that 2 entries in 1 day was only fair...

Since last I wrote, my projects are going very nicely. Wally is still alive and growing very quickly. He is very loud and very strong with big paws...I think he’ll probably be a big dog, if he lives to adulthood, that is. He already had one near-death experience earlier this week. I swore I saw him go completely underneath the tires of a car, but somehow he just limped away with a sore back leg and a small cut. It was traumatizing nonetheless –probably more so for me than for him, he was running around 2 hours later. So it’s back to being tied to his rope, which my host father likes to call prison. I talk about him in class with my students, so now they always ask about him, and want me to bring him to school. I think mostly everyone just gets a huge kick out of the white girl (or mataan ahset) with the dog she treats like a person. oh well...goal 3 of Peace Corps Mission: Bring American culture to host country community. Check.

Paddling is going great. I know so many more people in my town now that I’ve been paddling for a couple months. We’re getting closer to the final races at the end of this month. We practice twice a day (once at 5:30 am, again at 5:00 pm), I usually only go in the afternoon. I’m definitely not a morning person and it’s really hard for me to socialize and be peppy that early in the day – I’d rather not expose the whole town to my grumpy morning self.

My garden is...not doing so great. It’s finished and we planted some cabbage, but they aren’t thriving like I imagined they would when I first thought of starting a garden. Out of the 20 or so we planted we’re down to about 7. I joked around with my host parents when we first started the garden that I hoped I hadn’t inherited my mother’s black thumb of death...I’m trying to nurse the poor little guys back to health, but I may very well be doing more harm than good.

We are about to finish the third quarter at school. My students are now completely comfortable with me in the classroom...their behavior has been more difficult to manage lately because of it. I’m tossing around the idea of trying to start an after school program of sorts for next school year. I haven’t done anything more than just talk with some other teachers about the idea, but they seem to think it would be good. It would be a way to incorporate some art, sports and maybe even music into the curriculum. Like any development project, it should strive to be sustainable – meaning it would still be here after the person who initiated it (me) leaves. I read somewhere that development workers should strive to put themselves out of business. Great quote; it should be a prerequisite mission statement for all development organizations around the world.

Travel Skills 101

It may seem a somewhat self evident observation, but in my opinion of all the problems a visitor encounters in his or her travels the most difficult is the utter foreignness and inevitable conspicuousness he or she faces on a daily basis while traveling abroad. Although people like to romanticize the experience as the “joys of traveling,” I believe it is at these times when a person’s real “travel” skills – patience, creativity, acceptance, and daring – are put to the test.

Haven’t we always been told, “Patience is a virtue?” This is nowhere so true as in a foreign country. Between conquering language barriers, bartering the price of the fish you need to cook dinner, navigating foreign streets without getting lost (or maybe while already lost), waiting for everything – buses, taxis, people, animals – it’s good to be able to take a deep breath and practice the art of patience.

I have always said that creativity is not one of my strengths – but after joining the Peace Corps I’ve reconsidered this assumption, perhaps I have always been too hard on myself. As any traveler can attest to, replicating even the easiest recipe from home can be a test of a person’s creativity. After all, how does one make chili without chili powder? Answer: lots of hot sauce, some salt and a little hot pepper.

Before embarking on any sort of adventure – the big ones across the world, or the little ones down the street to the store – it is best to accept the fact that you will forever be conspicuous in everything you say and do. Unfortunately, there is no hiding for the weary traveler. Seeing as the visitor is at all times susceptible to attention in all its forms – the good, the bad, and the really, really annoying – it is best to adopt a “go with the flow” attitude. Accepting now that those people in the market will follow you for blocks and blocks trying to sell you the ugly monkey-head statue that you’ve already said, a hundred times, you didn’t want, will save some unneeded stress in the future.

Upon taking that first step out of the front door the traveler must recognize his or her spirit of adventure. This is unquestionably the universal travel skill that will be called upon infinitely more often than all the others combined. It takes daring to jump into unknown and, almost certainly, uncomfortable situations. But, as I’ve found in my limited traveling experience, a good sense of humor and the ability to laugh at oneself are the best recipes for a successful adventure experience.

I recently began my sixth month living in Kosrae. Although I am far from being considered any sort of “local”, every day I am getting better and better at blending in: my language skills are improving every day; my wardrobe is slowly morphing into those of other Kosraean women – I have enough skirts to clothe a small feminist army; my food preparation skills are amazing – I can gut a fish, slice it, salt it and fry it with the best of em. And though I may never escape the visitor status while I’m here, the skills I have learned, the people I have met, and the friends I have made more than make up for the conspicuousness of the title Peace Corps Volunteer.

Saturday, January 17, 2009

Holiday Adventures

1/8/09

First, I must apologize for my poor blog management over the last couple of months. It is most certainly not for lack of news that I have been neglecting to post entries; since completing my training I have been very busy getting used to island life again. Since I last posted Christmas and New Year’s have come and gone, both of which were very eventful occasions involving lots of singing, eating, marching, candy throwing, water balloon tossing, sparkler twirling and dancing.

Christmas celebration is unique in Kosrae – the main activity is marching and singing. It is difficult to describe what exactly Christmas marching is (men, women, boys and girls of all ages lined up one behind the other singing and marching in patterns – some of the females carry large stars on poles, all of the males wave stars back/forth/up/down). I encourage you to uTube search Kosrae Christmas marching to see a real life version.

I spent New Year’s Eve bbq-ing with family and friends, which was started, incidentally, after the New Year mark, at around 1 am. Someone brought out the sparklers at about 3 am and at about 5 am started a small dance party. I saw my first Kosrae sunrise about an hour later and finally went to sleep at 7 am. New Year’s Day was spent watching/dodging water balloons and water guns that all kids were aiming at passing cars and trucks.

After 2 weeks of Christmas break I started back at school on January 5. I had decided with my counterpart that I would officially begin teaching at the beginning of the 3rd quarter, which began after break. So as of Jan 5 I am teaching 8th and 9th grade English lit and possibly 9th grade social studies in the near future. It has been very interesting so far. I just got done with a unit on Ancient Chinese with my 8th graders – we made paper (like the ancient chinese did) and they wrote chinese characters on them. The 9th grade is learning about metaphors, similes, and symbolism. I have no idea on any given day how much of the lesson my students actually understand. Overall, I honestly think I am learning more Kosraean from them then they are learning English from me.

On a completely different note, I have 3 new projects for the new year that are intended to try and help me stay busy during my down time.

Project #1: Garden – with the help of my host family I am in the beginning stages of starting a garden to grow a variety of fruits and vegetables including cucumbers, watermelon, papaya, lettuce, and bell peppers. So far this has entailed digging up a grove of white ginger (which I now loath not only because it is a terribly invasive plant species but mostly because of the back-breaking work it took to dig up), pouring boiling water into crab holes to ensure that no veggies will be sabotaged by hungry land crabs, and surrounding the garden with coconut tree trunks to keep out the herd of piglets that run around our yard. We still have to cover it with fresh soil and get seedlings from the agriculture center at the community college.

Project #2: Paddling – after watching for the last month, I finally started paddling this past week. It was the ultimate shock of the century for everyone in my town to see that the white person knew how to paddle. It’s been a really great way to get to know more people. The canoes are similar to those in Hawaii, the main difference being the placement of the outrigger – it is on the right side here instead of the left.

Project #3: Puppy – that’s right, I got a puppy. A few weeks ago one of our dogs died (don’t know why, he wasn’t old, general conclusion is that he ate something bad), so we were down to just 1. A fellow PCV had 4 puppies, in addition to 5 other grown dogs, so she was more than willing to send one my way. His name is Wally, he is black and white, he follows me around everywhere, and has taken to biting my feet. Even though I’ve grown up with dogs, I forgot how much work puppies are. Luckily he lives outside so no worries with house training, but between waking up at 6:00 am to feed him, finding a rope he cannot chew through, and following him around making sure he doesn’t get run over, he is quite a handful. But I love him already.

Thursday, November 13, 2008

Training is officially over and as of this morning (Friday, Nov 14) I am a Peace Corps Volunteer. I can hardly believe I have been in Micronesia for 9 weeks the last 6 of which I have spent at my permanent site in Kosrae, which is pronounced koshr-eye.

A brief overview of Kosrae: it is the eastern-most state in the FSM and, unlike the other three states and Palau, has no outer islands. There is 1 road around the island, no traffic lights, 1 post office, 1 hospital, 1 bank, 6 elementary schools, and 1 high school. The island is divided into 4 municipalities: Tafunsak, Lelu (Lela), Malem and Utwe. The majority of the population is Protestant with a minority of practicing Catholics, Pentacostal, Mormons, Babtists and a sporadic Jahovah Witness. It takes about 40 minutes to get from the south side of the island to the north shore, and there is a village on the western side that is accessible by boat (only at high tide) or by 4-wheel drive (the ultimate off-roading experiance). The spoken languages include Kosraean and English. The island’s name comes from the word “kasrao” (pronounced kah-shrao) which means “heavenly kingdom”.

I was fortunate enough to be placed with my permanent host family upon arrival because of their proximity to the training site. They are wonderful; so welcoming and friendly – I feel like I’ve known them much longer than a month and a half. I have 3 host brothers (21, 18, 4) and 1 host sister (23). With their help my Kosraean is improving daily. It is a fairly straightforward language. No verb conjugation per se – the context of the conversation is very important, as it determines the verb tense and the meanings of many words, which may have 2, 3 or even 4 different definitions. The most difficult aspect of Kosraean is the use of “hanging suffixes” as I like to call them – different “ah”s, “uh”s, “an”s, and “ay”s that just appear at the end of words or sentences for no apparent reason, other than “it just sounds right” as our language instructor fondly explained to us. Not the best answer for a bunch of Americans who are used to strict grammar rules. The great thing about Kosraean is that it is spoken very slooowly and the syllables are often drawn out so it gives the new learner – such as myself – ample time to register the sentence and formulate an appropriate response, which can be spoken equally as slowly.

On a completely different note, we had a second water safety day the other week, which is more than anything else an excuse to take us out snorkeling. As some of you may know, I don’t particularly care for snorkeling – mainly due to an irrational fear of fish and steep ocean drop-offs. You would think that after living in Hawaii for so long this strange phobia would be cured, but I definitely came to Micronesia – often rated # 1 in the world for snorkeling and scuba – excited about the beaches, the swimming and the canoeing, but a little apprehensive of the underwater activities. After our first water safefy/snorkeling day in Pohnpei when I saw a giant manta ray and then this latest snorkeling adventure, which featured the most spectacular coral I’ve ever seen (a sight that might be featured in Planet Earth or National Geographic), I have a newfound love for underwater sightseeing activities. I foresee some scuba lessons in my near future :)

To summarize, in the last 6 weeks I have: attended 3 funerals and 2 weddings, woven countless coconut leaf plates, ridden on 3 boats, eaten turtle – twice, sang 4 (Kosraean) songs in a youth group choir, received 5 hand sewn dresses, gone fishing once, taught 2 9th grade classes, eaten pounds and pounds of fresh ahi (at $1.75/pound and it’s the best I’ve ever tasted), and acquired a whole new set of family members. It’s been a busy month and a half.

One last thing before I fall asleep at my computer – YAY PRESIDENT OBAMA! Just what this country needs: a new direction and passion – a new generation with a renewed enthusiasm.

I feel so good about the United States, about being an American and about representing my country abroad, which is such a nice change.

Sunday, September 28, 2008

Kaselehlia!

After a grueling 2-day journey across the pacific, including stops in the Marshall Islands, a US military base who’s name I can not even begin to guess the spelling, and Kosrae (the most eastern of the FSM islands), our group of 28 Peace Corps Trainees (PCTs) deplaned in the “Garden Island” of Micronesia – Pohnpei. Initial reactions: humid, covered in mangroves, beautiful, and green as far as the eye can see. That was Saturday September 13, and marked the beginning of the 9-week testing period peace corps fondly calles Pre-Service Training (PST – oh how they love those acronyms). After a 2-day stay in a local hotel we were herded onto a tour bus and shipped out to the eastern side of the island to Madolenihmw, apparently the most traditional of Pohnpei’s 5 municipalities.

Upon arrival we went through a hilariously awkward “meet and greet” during which we were ceremoniously paired up with our host families. I am very happy to say that I had the good fortune to be assigned the BEST host family on Pohnpei. When they asked me where I was from and I told them Hawaii they promptly answered, “oh you are a local! We are the luckiest family in Madolenihmw.” Needless to say, the last 2 weeks have been awesome – a near effortless transition.

For instance I wake up every morning and have to remind myself that it’s not actually Kauai that I’m looking at out my window. Between the roosters, the ti leaf plants, the coconut, banana, breadfruit, mango and starfruit trees I feel at home. There are, however, the village feasts with 7+ squealing then roasted pigs, the ancient ruins of Nan Madol, and the perpetual hum of foreign languages to act as a constant reminder that, Toto, we’re not in Kansas anymore.

Yes, I’ve tried betelnut – twice. No, my teeth are not red – yet.

I’ve also been introduced to the wonderful tradition of sakau. Here in Pohnpei sakau – or kava – is magical, on many different levels. Its preparation and consumption will forgive even the most grievous of offenses between individuals or families; its calming effects will cure high blood pressure and anxiety – so they say; and no where else in the world will you watch the intricate yet delicate process of pounding the root with a stone, wrapping it up in hibiscus bark and squeezing out the mud like substance into coconuts to be shared by all.

It will most definitely be one aspect of Pohnpei that I will thoroughly miss when I ship off to my permanent site at the end of the week. The Peace Corps Micronesia program is unique in that us trainees are assigned permanent sites within the first 2 weeks of their PST. Because most FSM islands have their own unique language and the language training consumes such a large part of the PST, we get to be split up early in order to begin the grueling language training process. I found out last Wednesday that I will be placed on the island of...drum roll...Kosrae! I leave this Friday with 2 other people to begin the next 6 weeks of training.

According to my site folder, which is “subject to change” and “requires flexibility” (2 peace corps mantras one gets quite used to hearing and accepting), I will be teaching 9th grade english. Rumor has it that Kosrae has the most beautiful beaches, hikes and coral reefs, and that there are yoga classes, cable tv, bicycles and kayaks at the volunteers’ disposal. I will be sure to let you know which is fact and which is wishful thinking.

Seeing as it is now 11:25 pm and my typical bedtime these days is no later than 9:30, I can barely keep my eyes open and must end here. I hope you are doing well in your respective locations.
My new address is:

Ashley Jones, PCV
U.S. Peace Corps
Kosrae Field Office
P.O. Box 98
Tofol, Kosrae, FSM 96944

Love to all.

Sunday, September 7, 2008

Ready, Set...Go!

27 months. 27 months in the Federated States of Micronesia. For the past 5 months this has been the constant hum in the back of my head; a distant reality that until recently acted frequently as an interesting anecdote of sorts that would shock and impress the unsuspecting friend of a friend.

Oh how the tides have changed. Now that I am faced with the daunting task of packing my life into two bags (combined maximum weight of 80 lbs), the once distant reality is quickly becoming a very tangible, albeit anxious and excited, reality.

I leave Carson City, NV tomorrow (Monday) for Los Angeles where I will meet up with the 25 or so other volunteers destined for Peace Corps FSM/Palau. I’m not sure what our official agenda will be during these 48 hours or so in LA; I believe this time is officially dubbed, “Pre-Service Training Orientation.” My past experiences with orientations would lead me to guess that there will be some power point presentations on what it means to be a Peace Corps volunteer – the many obstacles one will undoubtedly face over the 2+ years of service – mixed up with those awkward get-to-know-eachother ice breakers that we all know and love...*cough cough*.

On Thursday morning we board a plane for Oahu (my first time “home” in over a year!), stay over night in Honolulu, and depart bright and early Friday morning for Kolonia, Pohnpei, FSM where we will officially begin the 3-month training period. At some point during the first couple months we will be assigned an official post for the 2 years of Peace Corps service.



So I know everyone is dying to know...will Ashley have contact with the outside world over the next 2 years?? Well that is certainly the plan. I’ll have this blog to keep all of you updated on my life and will of course welcome any questions/comments(/exciting packages..nudge-nudge wink-wink :) by way of the blog, my email or snail-mail addresses.

General pre-travel jitters and apprehensions of the unknown aside, I am thrilled at the idea of spending 27 months on a tropical island surrounded with pristine waters and white sandy beaches:) Sure beats an office cubicle....make you jealous?