Training is officially over and as of this morning (Friday, Nov 14) I am a Peace Corps Volunteer. I can hardly believe I have been in Micronesia for 9 weeks the last 6 of which I have spent at my permanent site in Kosrae, which is pronounced koshr-eye.
A brief overview of Kosrae: it is the eastern-most state in the FSM and, unlike the other three states and Palau, has no outer islands. There is 1 road around the island, no traffic lights, 1 post office, 1 hospital, 1 bank, 6 elementary schools, and 1 high school. The island is divided into 4 municipalities: Tafunsak, Lelu (Lela), Malem and Utwe. The majority of the population is Protestant with a minority of practicing Catholics, Pentacostal, Mormons, Babtists and a sporadic Jahovah Witness. It takes about 40 minutes to get from the south side of the island to the north shore, and there is a village on the western side that is accessible by boat (only at high tide) or by 4-wheel drive (the ultimate off-roading experiance). The spoken languages include Kosraean and English. The island’s name comes from the word “kasrao” (pronounced kah-shrao) which means “heavenly kingdom”.
I was fortunate enough to be placed with my permanent host family upon arrival because of their proximity to the training site. They are wonderful; so welcoming and friendly – I feel like I’ve known them much longer than a month and a half. I have 3 host brothers (21, 18, 4) and 1 host sister (23). With their help my Kosraean is improving daily. It is a fairly straightforward language. No verb conjugation per se – the context of the conversation is very important, as it determines the verb tense and the meanings of many words, which may have 2, 3 or even 4 different definitions. The most difficult aspect of Kosraean is the use of “hanging suffixes” as I like to call them – different “ah”s, “uh”s, “an”s, and “ay”s that just appear at the end of words or sentences for no apparent reason, other than “it just sounds right” as our language instructor fondly explained to us. Not the best answer for a bunch of Americans who are used to strict grammar rules. The great thing about Kosraean is that it is spoken very slooowly and the syllables are often drawn out so it gives the new learner – such as myself – ample time to register the sentence and formulate an appropriate response, which can be spoken equally as slowly.
On a completely different note, we had a second water safety day the other week, which is more than anything else an excuse to take us out snorkeling. As some of you may know, I don’t particularly care for snorkeling – mainly due to an irrational fear of fish and steep ocean drop-offs. You would think that after living in Hawaii for so long this strange phobia would be cured, but I definitely came to Micronesia – often rated # 1 in the world for snorkeling and scuba – excited about the beaches, the swimming and the canoeing, but a little apprehensive of the underwater activities. After our first water safefy/snorkeling day in Pohnpei when I saw a giant manta ray and then this latest snorkeling adventure, which featured the most spectacular coral I’ve ever seen (a sight that might be featured in Planet Earth or National Geographic), I have a newfound love for underwater sightseeing activities. I foresee some scuba lessons in my near future :)
To summarize, in the last 6 weeks I have: attended 3 funerals and 2 weddings, woven countless coconut leaf plates, ridden on 3 boats, eaten turtle – twice, sang 4 (Kosraean) songs in a youth group choir, received 5 hand sewn dresses, gone fishing once, taught 2 9th grade classes, eaten pounds and pounds of fresh ahi (at $1.75/pound and it’s the best I’ve ever tasted), and acquired a whole new set of family members. It’s been a busy month and a half.
One last thing before I fall asleep at my computer – YAY PRESIDENT OBAMA! Just what this country needs: a new direction and passion – a new generation with a renewed enthusiasm.
I feel so good about the United States, about being an American and about representing my country abroad, which is such a nice change.
Thursday, November 13, 2008
Sunday, September 28, 2008
Kaselehlia!
After a grueling 2-day journey across the pacific, including stops in the Marshall Islands, a US military base who’s name I can not even begin to guess the spelling, and Kosrae (the most eastern of the FSM islands), our group of 28 Peace Corps Trainees (PCTs) deplaned in the “Garden Island” of Micronesia – Pohnpei. Initial reactions: humid, covered in mangroves, beautiful, and green as far as the eye can see. That was Saturday September 13, and marked the beginning of the 9-week testing period peace corps fondly calles Pre-Service Training (PST – oh how they love those acronyms). After a 2-day stay in a local hotel we were herded onto a tour bus and shipped out to the eastern side of the island to Madolenihmw, apparently the most traditional of Pohnpei’s 5 municipalities.
Upon arrival we went through a hilariously awkward “meet and greet” during which we were ceremoniously paired up with our host families. I am very happy to say that I had the good fortune to be assigned the BEST host family on Pohnpei. When they asked me where I was from and I told them Hawaii they promptly answered, “oh you are a local! We are the luckiest family in Madolenihmw.” Needless to say, the last 2 weeks have been awesome – a near effortless transition.
For instance I wake up every morning and have to remind myself that it’s not actually Kauai that I’m looking at out my window. Between the roosters, the ti leaf plants, the coconut, banana, breadfruit, mango and starfruit trees I feel at home. There are, however, the village feasts with 7+ squealing then roasted pigs, the ancient ruins of Nan Madol, and the perpetual hum of foreign languages to act as a constant reminder that, Toto, we’re not in Kansas anymore.
Yes, I’ve tried betelnut – twice. No, my teeth are not red – yet.
I’ve also been introduced to the wonderful tradition of sakau. Here in Pohnpei sakau – or kava – is magical, on many different levels. Its preparation and consumption will forgive even the most grievous of offenses between individuals or families; its calming effects will cure high blood pressure and anxiety – so they say; and no where else in the world will you watch the intricate yet delicate process of pounding the root with a stone, wrapping it up in hibiscus bark and squeezing out the mud like substance into coconuts to be shared by all.
It will most definitely be one aspect of Pohnpei that I will thoroughly miss when I ship off to my permanent site at the end of the week. The Peace Corps Micronesia program is unique in that us trainees are assigned permanent sites within the first 2 weeks of their PST. Because most FSM islands have their own unique language and the language training consumes such a large part of the PST, we get to be split up early in order to begin the grueling language training process. I found out last Wednesday that I will be placed on the island of...drum roll...Kosrae! I leave this Friday with 2 other people to begin the next 6 weeks of training.
According to my site folder, which is “subject to change” and “requires flexibility” (2 peace corps mantras one gets quite used to hearing and accepting), I will be teaching 9th grade english. Rumor has it that Kosrae has the most beautiful beaches, hikes and coral reefs, and that there are yoga classes, cable tv, bicycles and kayaks at the volunteers’ disposal. I will be sure to let you know which is fact and which is wishful thinking.
Seeing as it is now 11:25 pm and my typical bedtime these days is no later than 9:30, I can barely keep my eyes open and must end here. I hope you are doing well in your respective locations.
My new address is:
Ashley Jones, PCV
U.S. Peace Corps
Kosrae Field Office
P.O. Box 98
Tofol, Kosrae, FSM 96944
Love to all.
Upon arrival we went through a hilariously awkward “meet and greet” during which we were ceremoniously paired up with our host families. I am very happy to say that I had the good fortune to be assigned the BEST host family on Pohnpei. When they asked me where I was from and I told them Hawaii they promptly answered, “oh you are a local! We are the luckiest family in Madolenihmw.” Needless to say, the last 2 weeks have been awesome – a near effortless transition.
For instance I wake up every morning and have to remind myself that it’s not actually Kauai that I’m looking at out my window. Between the roosters, the ti leaf plants, the coconut, banana, breadfruit, mango and starfruit trees I feel at home. There are, however, the village feasts with 7+ squealing then roasted pigs, the ancient ruins of Nan Madol, and the perpetual hum of foreign languages to act as a constant reminder that, Toto, we’re not in Kansas anymore.
Yes, I’ve tried betelnut – twice. No, my teeth are not red – yet.
I’ve also been introduced to the wonderful tradition of sakau. Here in Pohnpei sakau – or kava – is magical, on many different levels. Its preparation and consumption will forgive even the most grievous of offenses between individuals or families; its calming effects will cure high blood pressure and anxiety – so they say; and no where else in the world will you watch the intricate yet delicate process of pounding the root with a stone, wrapping it up in hibiscus bark and squeezing out the mud like substance into coconuts to be shared by all.
It will most definitely be one aspect of Pohnpei that I will thoroughly miss when I ship off to my permanent site at the end of the week. The Peace Corps Micronesia program is unique in that us trainees are assigned permanent sites within the first 2 weeks of their PST. Because most FSM islands have their own unique language and the language training consumes such a large part of the PST, we get to be split up early in order to begin the grueling language training process. I found out last Wednesday that I will be placed on the island of...drum roll...Kosrae! I leave this Friday with 2 other people to begin the next 6 weeks of training.
According to my site folder, which is “subject to change” and “requires flexibility” (2 peace corps mantras one gets quite used to hearing and accepting), I will be teaching 9th grade english. Rumor has it that Kosrae has the most beautiful beaches, hikes and coral reefs, and that there are yoga classes, cable tv, bicycles and kayaks at the volunteers’ disposal. I will be sure to let you know which is fact and which is wishful thinking.
Seeing as it is now 11:25 pm and my typical bedtime these days is no later than 9:30, I can barely keep my eyes open and must end here. I hope you are doing well in your respective locations.
My new address is:
Ashley Jones, PCV
U.S. Peace Corps
Kosrae Field Office
P.O. Box 98
Tofol, Kosrae, FSM 96944
Love to all.
Sunday, September 7, 2008
Ready, Set...Go!
27 months. 27 months in the Federated States of Micronesia. For the past 5 months this has been the constant hum in the back of my head; a distant reality that until recently acted frequently as an interesting anecdote of sorts that would shock and impress the unsuspecting friend of a friend.
Oh how the tides have changed. Now that I am faced with the daunting task of packing my life into two bags (combined maximum weight of 80 lbs), the once distant reality is quickly becoming a very tangible, albeit anxious and excited, reality.
I leave Carson City, NV tomorrow (Monday) for Los Angeles where I will meet up with the 25 or so other volunteers destined for Peace Corps FSM/Palau. I’m not sure what our official agenda will be during these 48 hours or so in LA; I believe this time is officially dubbed, “Pre-Service Training Orientation.” My past experiences with orientations would lead me to guess that there will be some power point presentations on what it means to be a Peace Corps volunteer – the many obstacles one will undoubtedly face over the 2+ years of service – mixed up with those awkward get-to-know-eachother ice breakers that we all know and love...*cough cough*.
On Thursday morning we board a plane for Oahu (my first time “home” in over a year!), stay over night in Honolulu, and depart bright and early Friday morning for Kolonia, Pohnpei, FSM where we will officially begin the 3-month training period. At some point during the first couple months we will be assigned an official post for the 2 years of Peace Corps service.

So I know everyone is dying to know...will Ashley have contact with the outside world over the next 2 years?? Well that is certainly the plan. I’ll have this blog to keep all of you updated on my life and will of course welcome any questions/comments(/exciting packages..nudge-nudge wink-wink :) by way of the blog, my email or snail-mail addresses.
General pre-travel jitters and apprehensions of the unknown aside, I am thrilled at the idea of spending 27 months on a tropical island surrounded with pristine waters and white sandy beaches:) Sure beats an office cubicle....make you jealous?
Oh how the tides have changed. Now that I am faced with the daunting task of packing my life into two bags (combined maximum weight of 80 lbs), the once distant reality is quickly becoming a very tangible, albeit anxious and excited, reality.
I leave Carson City, NV tomorrow (Monday) for Los Angeles where I will meet up with the 25 or so other volunteers destined for Peace Corps FSM/Palau. I’m not sure what our official agenda will be during these 48 hours or so in LA; I believe this time is officially dubbed, “Pre-Service Training Orientation.” My past experiences with orientations would lead me to guess that there will be some power point presentations on what it means to be a Peace Corps volunteer – the many obstacles one will undoubtedly face over the 2+ years of service – mixed up with those awkward get-to-know-eachother ice breakers that we all know and love...*cough cough*.
On Thursday morning we board a plane for Oahu (my first time “home” in over a year!), stay over night in Honolulu, and depart bright and early Friday morning for Kolonia, Pohnpei, FSM where we will officially begin the 3-month training period. At some point during the first couple months we will be assigned an official post for the 2 years of Peace Corps service.

So I know everyone is dying to know...will Ashley have contact with the outside world over the next 2 years?? Well that is certainly the plan. I’ll have this blog to keep all of you updated on my life and will of course welcome any questions/comments(/exciting packages..nudge-nudge wink-wink :) by way of the blog, my email or snail-mail addresses.
General pre-travel jitters and apprehensions of the unknown aside, I am thrilled at the idea of spending 27 months on a tropical island surrounded with pristine waters and white sandy beaches:) Sure beats an office cubicle....make you jealous?
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